GO GLOBAL OR THINK LOCAL

Mumbai to dictate a new fashion week format by thinking 'more local'

March 2010 will be a turning point for Indian fashion. There's something largely experimental and hard-hitting the fashion capital of Mumbai plans to do in the near future. Let me spill the beans — Lakme Fashion Week is soon to start showcasing current fashion trends instead of forecasting a look which would hit the stores in the next 6 months. Let's make it simpler. Traditionally, around the globe, a fashion week always follows a forecast-oriented format. So, a fashion week in Summer will forecast looks for winter and a fashion week in winter would showcase the look for upcoming summer. The reason this is done is because, the designers who showcase their designs on ramp models, get enquiries from buyers. These buyers place orders of say 100 or 100 pieces of the ramp design they liked. Then begins the manufacturing process. After production, it gets packed, labelled and then shipped to the stores as per the buyers' demands. The entire process tends to take up close to 5 months. And that's the reason why, a ramp design at a fashion week is always a forecast of the next upcoming season. But this is a European feature essentially. In Mumbai, we do not even experience seasons such as a strong winter, summer, or fall and autumn. And European countries tend to outsource their manufacturing work to developing countries. Eventually, shipping the garments itself takes a good deal of time. In Mumbai, most buyers at the Lakme Fashion Week are predominantly Mumbai and Delhi based. The entire manufacturing is done in local units. So, the delivery time is way shorter than six months. In 2 months flat, the ramp looks are ready to be worn. Thanks to our super-efficient designer, who often fall over each other to grab the fashionistas attention. (Now, this is global feature, done with much more sophistication though).A quick talk with Mumbai buyers revealed that they too were playing the idea of a format change so that a ramp look could get more accessible for the enthusiasts. This is what they said:

Sangita Kathiwada of Melange fashion boutique: There should be some reason for the world to consider Mumbai as it's own counterpart. With the format change, the elegance and style of Lakme Fashion Week may get eroded. Instead of showcasing current fashion trends, which fails the entire motive of a fashion week, I would say Mumbai can perhaps bridge the long six months gap with three months but not a make it within a window period of a few days...please.

Pradeep Hirani of Kimaya and Ayamik fashion house: Considering Mumbai's market, we definitely require fashion segmentation. International fashion houses need six months time for ramp looks to make it to the store racks because the garment manufacturing part is usually outsourced to developing countries. Mumbai has good production capabilities. So, I suggest we organise two fashion weeks — Luxury Pret (in January) and Couture Week (in July). Intersperse these with two market weeks in March and November with an aim to conduct hardcore fashion business. We should identify if this format works and then stick to it. Maybe the world needs to take a cue from Mumbai now.

Alka Nishar of Aza: It’s now time for Indian designers to focus their priorities — get more local-centric or more international or have a wise mix of both. On an experimental basis, format change is a neat idea. But, I want to see how well this will work with the smaller designers as well. Established designers may have good production capacities but we should consider the potential of the full design fraternity.

Falguni and Sushil Jhaveri of Fuel: Over 70 per cent of Indian designers cater only to the local fashion stores. The rest have specific orders which they send abroad. If the designers are able to deliver consignments of ramp looks within 15 days of a fashion week then perhaps we should look at shrinking the existing six-month cycle to two or three-months cycle.
Deepa Dholakia of Amara: Experimentation is required as fashionistas’ attention spans are getting shorter while the demand for newer looks is steadily getting higher. A fashion week must ideally mirror the reality and Indian fashionscape is not the same as international fashion weeks. A format change is a welcome bold step.

Sabina Chopra, fashion consultant with Muse: Not just Indian buyers even international buyers from Kuwait and mid-East show interest in quicker deliveries of Indian ramp designs. Six months is a European feature and only a sprinkling of European buyers actually do place design orders in Mumbai. Thus, it’s time to get directional by shrinking the window period of ramp shows and ready-to-wear design deliveries. Mumbai is ready to face the format change of Lakme Fashion Week.

Ravi Krishnan of IMG and Anil Chopra, advisor to Lakme Fashion Week have coined a trendy term to this format change — Strategic Shift. Quite obviously, this move is brought about due to the shrinking strength of buyers who attend the Lakme Fashion Week, a rescue method of a format change may just do the magic for a shorter time period. Both Ravi and Anil feel this move will further the cause of business in Indian fashion. Thus from 5- 9 March 2010, Summer/Pret designs will be showcased at the Lakme Fashion Week.

The girl with the blue scarf says: This move of changing the format of Lakme Fashion Week looks like it will do well locally to the business of fashion in Mumbai. But internationally, Mumbai's position may not even be considered for comparison with international weeks such as London and Paris Fashion Week and that's because the entire format of six months foreast itself is going to be different.

It's time to decide — Go Global or Think Local.